Thursday, June 16, 2011

Lazy Day

I woke up at 4am with some nasty stomach trouble, mostly felt like heartburn.  It was raining so getting back to sleep was no problem.  Tried to get up at 8 to surf, but didn't wake till 10. Two cups of coffee later, I was out.  I headed the opposite direction from yesterday to where the beach was supposed to be better for beginners and longboarding.  Turns out things aren't always what you hear.  Getting out was a struggle with all the beach break waves coming one after another, and they rose to about 5ft.  A handful of shortboarders who actually knew what they were doing were riding with ease, carving lefts and rights, busting big airs, and spinning 360s.  It was definitely cool to watch.  Me on the other hand, I rode maybe 2 good waves and spent the rest of the morning watching the show and resting.  Back at Casa Zen I made a couple of grilled cheese sandwiches and wolfed them down, hoping food might make my stomach better.  I moved my stuff to a new place, Wavetrotters, where the owner Miguel is really laid back.  He's got boards to rent and I'm currently his only guest, sweet deal.  We went to dinner at a pasta place that was fantastic, pesto penne never tasted so good.  It started to rain on our walk back, so I waited it out a little at Zen and made plans with some guys to surf a spot near Montezuma.  They have a car and are planning to meet at 5:30 tomorrow morning. I'm going to try and get up for it.  Wish me luck

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